THE HISTORY OF COLOMBO

By AN OCTOGENERIAN

A few years ago there was a series of articles in which the residents of Colombo were referred to as ‘Colombians.’ This inspired this writer to trace the history of Colombo and the derivation of its name.

It is reasonable to assume that the history of this city commenced from as early as the eighth century when traders from such diverse and distant countries as Arabia, China and Rome sailed into the harbor to barter their products in exchange for spices, specially cinnamon, for which our island –known to them as ‘Serendib’ had gained a world wide reputation.

Much later in 1344 the renowned Moroccan traveler Ibin Batuta had visited the island and referred to Colombo as Kalanbu. However from that year onward there have been conflicting interpretations of the manner by which ‘Colombo’ had got its name.

Firstly in 1505 when the Portuguese fleet had been blown by adverse winds and had drifted into the harbor they named the adjoining city as Colombo. This name had been derived from the ancient Sinhala term ‘Kolon Thota,’ which meant the port on the river Kelani. The second interpretation is that the name of the city had been derived from the Sinhala term ‘Kola Amba Thota’ which meant the harbor near which grew mango- (‘Amba’) trees which had plenty of leaves – (‘Kola’). A similar observation had been made by Robert Knox in his book titled ‘ A Historical Relation of Ceylon’ which was published in 1681.

Most readers would be aware that Robert Knox was no stranger to this island, having been held as a captive for 20 years by the king of the Kandyan Kingdom – Rajasinghe II who ruled from 1629 – 1687. Yet another interpretation is associated with the renowned explorer and navigator, Christopher Colombus whose name in Italian was Christoforo Colombo. Since he was married to a Portuguese and had lived in Lisbon for several years, his Portuguese connection was the most likely reason for this city to be named in his honor.

The Portuguese after having arrived in Colombo sent a delegation to meet King Vira Parakramabahu VIII (1484 to 1518 ) who reigned over the Kingdom of Kotte which during that period included the city of Colombo were cordially received in audience with the King. The Portuguese who were determined to consolidate their position in Colombo took the opportunity to obtain the permission of King Vira Parakramabahu to build a fort in Colombo.

Their first fort was constructed in 1518 and named ‘Santa Barbara.’ This was abandoned in 1524 and a new fort built on the same site in 1554. Archaeologists have identified this site as having been located between the present Colombo harbor and the Beira lake.

The history of Colombo continues by referring to the churches they built. The first of the many Roman Catholic churches built by the Portuguese was named ‘Nossa Senhora Milagres’ which meant Our Lady of Miracles. It is where the present Anglican church of St Paul’s is located in Milagiriya. The name Milagiriya having been derived from the Sinhalised form of the Portuguese word ‘milagre’ which meant miracle.

Along Ginthupitiya street there is another building of historical significance. This is the 19th century built Sri Siva Subramania Swamy Kovil dedicated to Lord Muruga also referred to as the God of Kataragama, which can be seen even today. It is also recorded that many years ago Ginthupitiya, was named as ‘ San Thome Pitiya,’ because many Christians believed that St Thomas the Apostle had visited this site and preached to the people. However it must be emphasized that there is no authenticated evidence that St Thomas had ever visited Ginthupitiya/San Thome Pitiya.

The Dutch who arrived in the island in 1640 made Colombo their stronghold, referring to it as their Operational Centre. Not being Roman Catholics but Protestants they did not want to be outdone by the Portuguese who had, as mentioned earlier, built many churches. For this reason they decided to build their own churches in accordance with their faith.

The best known Dutch church is the Wolvendaal Church, which they referred to as Wolvendaalse Kirk, which even today is a place of worship for the Non- Roman Catholics. Another edifice built by them was the Dutch Hospital which is considered to be one of the oldest buildings in Colombo Fort. It has now been converted to be an imposing and impressionable shopping arcade and a popular dining rendezvous.

The British who defeated the Dutch made Colombo their main city but went further by establishing it as the island’s capital. At the risk of striking a sad and somber note, it needs to be stated that in 1866 the British donated to Colombo the 48- acre burial grounds referred to as Kanatte. Here among the many thousands who rest in peaceful slumber is the prominent science- fiction writer Sir Arthur C. Clarke.

There is also what may be referred to as the second grave of Sri Lanka’s valiant martyr Henry Pedris who was executed for treason by the British on July 7, 1915. In keeping with British military tradition his body was buried in an unmarked location in a secret plot far from Colombo. But in 1987 his relatives unearthed his body and buried it in Kanatte.

Colombo has another cemetery which is located along Jawatte road in what is referred today as Colombo 05. Unknown to many it is the largest Commonwealth War cemetery in the island. On July 8, 2005 it was declared as an archaeological site. Furthermore it is interesting to note that ‘Ja’ which are the first two letters of ‘Jawatte’ refers to the Malay community, who had purchased the block of land for use as a cemetery in 1941

Readers will be surprised to know that in Colombo the British had built many well known edifices which today are considered to be landmarks such as the Galle Face Hotel, Cargills Building. Also built in British times were the University of Colombo Building which was originally built for Royal College, the Joseph Frazer Nursing Home, the old House of Parliament, Temple Trees, the President’s House, the former General Post Office, Lloyds Building, the National Museum and the Old Town Hall located in Pettah which is presently a Museum and contains a fascinating collection of memorabilia such as street signs, steam rollers and printing presses.

Mention must also be made of another British contribution to the city of Colombo. This was the tramcar network, which operated on two main routes, Fort – Grandpass and Fort – Borella . This network was discontinued 1953.

To continue the history of Colombo it is now relevant to refer to World War II ( September 1, 1939 – September 2, 1945 ) and in particular to the involvement of Japan. It was during this period that under Emperor Hirohito the Japanese carried out a campaign of ruthless expansionism and militarization in the countries of South East Asia. It commenced with the unprovoked destruction of the American fleet berthed in Pearl harbor in Hawaii on December 7, 1941.

From then onwards they systematically ravaged every country in South Asia. Finally when on February 15, 1942 Singapore was captured, it was inevitable that their next conquest would be Ceylon. During this period Ceylon – as our island was referred to, was a British colony and the Allied forces comprising British, Canadian and troops from the independent dominions of the British Commonwealth were stationed in many parts of the island but were concentrated in Colombo and Trincomalee. But since this article is about the history of Colombo, a description of the Japanese attack on Trincomalee will regrettably have to be left for another day.

It was the intention of the Japanese forces to have complete control of the Indian ocean thereby disrupting the British sea lanes with India and the Middle East and also to be within striking distance of the oil fields in the Persian Gulf over which Britain had a virtual monopoly. It was in anticipation of a Japanese attack which if successful would have been irreparably detrimental to the British that the Allied forces stationed in Colombo were compelled to take numerous precautionary measures which to the citizens of Colombo were more often than not a source of irritation and impatience.

Every evening by sunset all street lights were switched off. The time was advanced by one hour to enable office workers to return to their homes before darkness covered the city. The movement of vehicles was prohibited, unless the owner/driver had a special pass in which case the head lamps had to be covered leaving just enough space for a glimmer of light to appear to prevent the driver from taking the wrong turn.

There were also what has been referred to as ‘Black Out’ nights. Residents living within the city were compelled to drape black curtains or fix sheets of cardboard over every window in their houses to prevent any light from appearing from outside. Colombo was in complete darkness, thereby making it impossible for Japanese bombers to identify any important landmarks. Sirens were installed to warn the people whenever there was a possibility of an air raid and on hearing the eerie screech of the siren they had to take refuge in the specially built underground air-raid shelters which were located at key points within the city .

A Mobile Air-Raid Precaution (ARP) team was formed mainly comprising of Rover Scouts which was headed by the Scout Commissioner. Their duty was to ensure that the public adhered to the regulations which had been enforced to safeguard them in case of a Japanese attack. Co-operative Stores were established throughout the city and a coupon system introduced for the purchase of essential groceries. Nevertheless there was a scarcity of rice for which a substitute referred to as ‘bajiri’ was issued. Even though many quite justifiably complained that it tasted like straw, there was no alternative.

Early in the morning on Sunday April 5, 1942, the worst fears of the Allied forces materialized. The Japanese armada led by Vice Admiral Mitsuo Fuchida who was responsible for the attack on the American fleet in Pearl harbor bombed Colombo devastating strategic installations in the city and harbor. The Japanese attack was so relentless that one pilot carefully avoiding the balloon barrages connected to the ground by steel wires which swayed high in the air over the harbor, demonstrated his devotion to his country and his Emperor by committing the ultimate sacrifice of ‘Harakiri’ by diving bombing into the funnel of a British destroyer berthed in the harbor bursting its fuel tanks and sinking the ship.

It is now relevant to quote the statement issued by the war-time Prime Minister of Britain, Sir Winston Churchill: “The most dangerous moment of the war and the one which caused me the greatest alarm was when the Japanese fleet was heading for Ceylon and the naval base there,” this being a reference to the Colombo harbor.

The war-time history of Colombo needs to be continued with the mention of Flight Lieutenant Leonard Birchall who was acclaimed as the ‘Savior of Ceylon.’ because while piloting his Catalina sea plane he was alarmed to see the Japanese fleet just 360 miles off the coast of the island and heading for the Colombo harbor. He was barely able to send a message of warning to the Allied forces stationed in Colombo when his plane was shot down and he was captured by the Japanese crew and taken to a Prisoner of War camp in Japan, to be questioned under torture as to whether he did send a message to the Allied forces stationed in Colombo.

It was his fortuitous warning which enabled the Allied forces in Colombo to be prepared for the impending Japanese attack. During the raid many residents of Colombo were in such a state of frenzied panic that they fled seeking refuge in homes far away from Colombo. Those who remained behind were able to watch the unforgettable sight in the sky above of what had been referred to as ‘dog fights’ between the RAF (Royal Air Force) Hawker Hurricanes and the Japanese Mitsubishi Zero fighter planes. When the raid was over burning wrecks of Japanese aircraft were found in places outside Colombo. However according to an unconfirmed report one wreck was found on Galle Face Green and another in Maradana.

Finally the writer is pleased to mention that one of the most unforgettable contributions made by the British to Ceylon was the game of cricket. Even though it is not rated as the national sport it is certainly the most popular, making us a cricket crazy country, perhaps second only to India.