Green tea in Japan delicately plucked with gloved hands

by ACB Pethiyagoda

In spite of its technological advancement, perhaps as in no other Asian country, modern Japan still maintains close links with simple things of its past in several enduring forms. The commonest, to mention a few, are the tatami mat-covered floors in homes, tiny goblets of hot sake in winter, cold sake in summer, bamboo chopsticks, delicious tempura and of course green tea with its subtle flavour and aroma.

The 121 million people in Japan are estimated to have consumed some 186 million kilograms of green tea in 1984 together with about 10 million kilograms of black tea imported from Sri Lanka, Indonesia and some other countries.

This represents a per capita consumption of about 1.61 kilograms a year in spite of fierce competition from coffee and a whole range of soft drinks which without doubt appear to be more popular particularly among the younger generation. Sri Lankans in comparison are estimated to consume less tea than the Japanese in spite of little competition from other beverages of comparable price.

Ocha, the local name for green tea in Japan. A non alcoholic national beverage and was introduced to the country in the eighth century by Buddhist monks returning home from China after visits for the study of the religion. Tea grew in popularity among them for its medicinal properties, now claimed to be rich in Vitamin C and also for its stimulating effect which sustained them in their long hours of prayer and meditation. The upper classes of society next took to the drinking and thereafter its popularity gradually spread among Japanese at all levels.

The first Japanese tea plantations are said to have been set up in the 12th century in Kyoto and even to this day this region is known as the best tea-producing area in the country. The ‘JAT’ of the tea most frequently seen in Japan seems more like the ‘low Jat’ varieties seen in Sri Lanka.

Cultural practices are said to be very similar but plucking tables are rounded leaving wider passageways for the convenience of pluckers who carry their plucking baskets in their hands and not on their backs as in Sri Lanka and India. Strangely enough, the women pluck the leaf with gloved hands which naturally makes harvesting slow and expensive. These practices tend to increase costs so that the consumers, even in self service cafeterias pay around SL Rs. 30/- fora couple of sips of the drink without milk and sugar, which even by Japanese standards is expensive.

For those used to drinking black tea either with milk or lemon, sweetened or not, cold or hot, the first encounter with Japan’s green tea is something of an experience, even if the occasion is not the elaborate and much talked of tea ceremony. The light green colour of the liquid, three quarters full in a delicate china cup without a handle and placed on a saucer of a different colour from the cup, comes as a surprise. This is followed by a second surprise with the first sip which though far from unpleasant has the characteristic raw green taste.

The taste however, differs almost from place to place if not almost from cup to cup, each having something of its own to delight the taste buds of those who can appreciate subtle differences in flavour and aroma. This is not entirely unexpected because, like black tea, its green relation also comes into the market in varying grades and from different agroclimatic regions which influence its quality, strength, body, flavour and other features.

The method of processing is naturally different from that of black tea. For the manufacture of green tea, freshly harvested leaf is steamed to destroy the enzymes which retain the colour, and thoroughly dried thereafter. The dried leaf is normally a shiny green but the sheen varies according to the maturity and inherent characteristics of the harvested leaf.

In traditional tea shops and in some departmental stores different grades such as Bancha, Sencha, Gyokuro, Matcha are displayed for sale in bins. Matcha is entirely different from the other grades as it resembles our dust No. 2 having been crushed and is normally used in the well-known tea ceremony.

The other grades are leaf teas. Bancha, the grade from the more mature leaf together with some stalk is the cheapest grade and is often served free of charge in offices, shops and restaurants. Secha which is more expensive is used in homes and in the higher class of Japanese restaurants.

Connoisseurs who find the taste of this grade more refined, subtle and the infusion a clearer shade of green naturally pay more for this grade than for Bancha. Gyokuro is the best grade of green tea with its leaf said to come from particular regions of the tea-growing area, harvested at close plucking rounds, devoid of stalk and carefully processed and packed. It is expensive and sipped for sheer delight and never gulped to quench a thirst.

From the Bancha grade two others teas are made, Genmaicha and Hokicha. The first is mixed with powdered grains of coarse rice giving a pleasant aroma and flavour. Hokicha cannot be strictly classified as a green tea as it is lightly roasted and in the process is said to loose the stimulating properties of tea making it a suitable drink even before bedtime.

To prepare the perfect brew one is advised to bring water to boiling point allowing to cool for one to three minutes and then poured on leaves placed in a warmed pot. The recommended infusion time is about one and a half to two minutes – slightly different from making the perfect cup of black tea. But then these directions are for preparing Japan’s green tea which is only sipped and savoured, unhurriedly, for its flavours, aroma and medicinal properties too.

(The late writer, a regular contributor the Sunday Island, was a career tea planter who after retirement ran agriculture related projects for Ceylon Tobacco Company)