Encounter with leopardsmand a bear

by Ravi Samarasinha

(Continued from last week)

During the latter part of 1999, my friend Jehan and I joined Mike Birkhead, wildlife film producer, as consultants to advise and assist in the production of a British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) documentary about leopards at Yala National Park. Mike, co-producer of the recent award winning BBC wildlife series, “Land of the tiger”, acquired the services of cameraman Gordon Buchanan who had experience filming jaguar in South America and lion in Africa, for the challenging task of filming leopard in Sri Lanka.

Leopards are most active at night, and in Sri Lanka little is known of their nocturnal activities. To reveal this unknown feature, we obtained special permission to film at night using infra-red lighting, which is invisible to man and most animals. The use of an infra-red sensitive camera enabled us to observe and record the nocturnal behaviour of leopards with minimal disturbance to them.

After several months of preparation, Mike and Gordon arrived in Sri Lanka in March 2000. A jeep belonging to a game guard at Yala was selected and suitably modified to enable filming from either side. Filming began in mid-March. During the subsequent one and a half years, Gordon spent more than 200 days filming at Yala. Jehan and I, who were present most of the time, gained an intriguing insight to wildlife film making, and shared many memorable wildlife experiences with Gordon.

Dead wild boar

One such unforgettable experience occurred during the third month of filming. After a week in Colombo I returned eager to join Gordon who had remained filming at Yala. As I drove up to the park office the game guards had thrilling news for me. During the early hours of the morning a large wild boar with severe facial injuries had been seen struggling feebly below the Buttuwa tank bund, while a few metres away a concealed leopard had been watching patiently!

A short while later game guard Sunil and I approached Buttuwa tank with intense anticipation. A mongoose, startled by our approach, scurried away from the dead pig, which lay 10 metres to our right. A gust of wind aroused the dormant flies, and brought the overpowering smell of rotten flesh to us. The pig lay in a small clearing in the jungle with the three-metre high tank bund to its left. Beyond, and to the right of it, the ground sloped upward to a rocky ledge, which was partially covered by thick, thorny acacia bushes. Using the binoculars I carefully scrutinized the surrounding thorny scrub for any sign of the leopard seen that morning. If present it was well concealed. Disappointed, I focused the binoculars on to the pig. The pig’s extensive injuries to its now partially decomposed snout, was suggestive of a failed crocodile attack at the nearby tank.

Leopard versus crocodile

After a brief period of observation, I decided to move on hoping to locate Gordon. When we returned close to 6 pm, I was thrilled to see Gordon’s vehicle ahead, with his camera aimed towards the pig’s carcass. As I cautiously drove nearer, my swiftly beating heart received a jolt when Sunil touched my arm, and whispered kotiya (leopard). I quickly turned around and could not believe my eyes, for not one, but three leopards were seated on a mound in the gravel pit on our left! Hoping that Gordon would be able to record this unique sighting, I quickly drove up alongside. As Gordon, a true professional, continued filming, I shifted my attention to the carcass where his camera was aimed. I saw an incredible sight! A snarling leopard, its withdrawn lips exposing its canines embedded in the pig’s neck, was attempting to drag the latter away from a massive 10-foot crocodile, who lunged forward with jaws agape and hissing loudly.

The leopard, releasing its grip on the pig, reared back snarling. Then she sprang forward with a ferocious growl, her paw with unsheathed claws raised to strike. The combatants, each unwilling to give in, stood face to face, snarling and hissing at each other. This spellbound moment was shattered by the high-speed arrival of a rattling tourist jeep, whose driver, on seeing us, brought it to a screeching halt. As its occupants pointed and cried out in excitement, the startled leopard fled into the nearby scrub, while the crocodile with surprising speed disappeared under a korakaha bush.

Infra-red photography

As dusk approached only Gordon and I finally remained. Since it was a moonless night, it became dark rapidly and soon the light was inadequate to see the carcass. Suddenly a sambhur called urgently from our right, while Gordon hastily set up his infra-red equipment. Then the langurs began calling and jumping from branch to branch in the tall pallu trees just beyond. The leopard’s day had only just begun!

I soon knew Gordon had his infra-red system on, as the light from his video monitor dimly lit the rear of the jeep as he panned the lights in search of the leopards. I switched my video to the infra-red mode and peered in hopefully. Immediately, the twin beams of searching light invisible to the unaided eye sprang into view. A few seconds later the light illuminated four leopards seated at the edge of the clearing. The big female got up and walked to the carcass while the three large cubs sat watching. As the leopard seized the pig a swarm of buzzing flies took wing forcing her temporarily to let go the carcass.

She shook her head irritably, and then grasping the pig dragged it into the open while the disturbed flies settled on the surrounding shrubs. Having got rid of most of the flies she now began to feed hungrily, tearing and pulling at the carcass while the three cubs watched impatiently. The biggest cub unable to restrain itself, crept up to the carcass, and submissively attempted a tentative lick. With a terrifying growl the mother leopard sprang onto the cub and dealt it a swift blow with her paw! As the subdued cub slunk away she continued feeding. When she was replete she sat nearby licking her paws, and then rolled over contentedly. The cubs ran up to the carcass and growled at each other as they tore into it.

Suddenly, there was a rustling of leaves and instantly all the leopards were alert staring keenly towards the tank bund. The mother leopard stood up snarling and growling, tail raised, while the three cubs backed away from the half eaten carcass. Gordon slowly panned the light towards the bund to reveal a wave of crocodiles descending down the bund! The outnumbered leopards could only watch as the carcass disappeared into the writhing mass of hissing crocodiles.

A near skirmish with a bear

A different and potentially dangerous episode occurred a few months later. Whenever we could, Gordon and I would explore the numerous rocky outcrops scattered throughout the park, hoping to find and film a new scene, which would show future viewers the great beauty of the landscape.

That morning Gordon and I accompanied by trackers Kusumpala and Dalpay, set off shortly before noon to explore a 30-metre high rock situated about a kilometre away. The first part of the journey was through scrub forest consisting of andara, katupila, and korakaha with its electric blue flowers. Further on, the track narrowed with lantana encroaching and partially obliterating the pathways in sections. As we forced our way through, scratching our bare arms and legs in the process, I failed to notice the eraminiya creeper until its curved thorns hooked my earlobe, bringing me to a painful halt. Kusumpala, who obligingly rescued me, continued to lead the way, with a solid stick held firmly in his right hand. Once we arrived at the rock, we walked around it looking for a way to the summit.

Bear in a cave

On the western aspect we found a cave made by a 14-metre high boulder, which rested against the main rock. Within this enclosure, old whitened bones and antlers were plentiful, while numerous animal tracks criss-crossed in the fine sand lining the floor. Just beyond, a huge pile of fallen boulders provided a difficult path to the summit. As I was recording the scene with my video camera, Gordon, Kusumpala and Dalpay went ahead. Kusumpala climbed halfway and waited as I made my way towards him. As I came up to him I saw below me, an opening in a cave situated between the main rock and the boulder I was climbing. Naturally curious, I peered in, only to recoil in horror as a black shape came at me with a bloodcurdling roar. I stood there petrified, as Kusumpala shouted and lashed out with his stick. The sound of its claws raking the boulder below came to me as the bear fell back, unable to reach me. It then rapidly descended and disappeared into the jungle. Laughing in relief, we joined the others at the summit.

(Excerpted from Jungle Journeys in Sri Lanka – Experiences and encounters, compiled by CG Uragoda)