Features
A Tourist in Iraq
Part Three PASSIONS OF A GLOBAL HOTELIER
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca
When the 52 new recruits of Hotel Babylon Oberoi found themselves at a standstill, awaiting the final nod on their work permits, disappointment hung heavy in the air. The unforeseen two-week delay cast a shadow of uncertainty over our heads. Yet, rather than succumbing to frustration, I saw it as an opportunity—an unexpected window to explore the wonders of Iraq.
As we awaited bureaucratic clearance, I resolved to seize this hiatus as a chance to immerse myself in the rich tapestry of Iraqi culture. Having traversed much of the European Union, delved into Eastern Europe, wandered through Asia, and ventured into Africa briefly, the Middle East beckoned as the next chapter in my global odyssey. And what better place to begin than the vibrant heart of Baghdad?
With a thirst for knowledge and a hunger for adventure, I set out to uncover the layers of history and tradition that have shaped this land, despite its recent years of isolation due to conflict. It was time to embrace the warmth of Iraqi hospitality, delve into its ancient heritage, and unravel the mysteries hidden within its bustling streets and beyond…
Baghdad’s Treasures
Venturing beyond the confines of our hotel, we encountered an initial obstacle. A group of stern-faced police officers halted our progress, reminding us of the restricted zones that barred non-Iraqis. Undeterred, we quickly learned to navigate the city’s streets via taxi, ensuring our excursions continued unhindered.
Our curiosity led us to Baghdad’s renowned mosques, each a testament to the city’s rich cultural heritage. Yet, it was the allure of the national museum that truly captivated our interest. En route, our taxi driver insisted on a brief detour through the storied lanes of old Baghdad.
Al-Mutanabbi Street unfolded before us, a testament to centuries of literary legacy. Named after the revered 10th-century poet, Abul Tayeb al-Mutanabbi, the thoroughfare exuded an aura of historical significance. At its entrance stood an arch embellished with verses from the poet’s timeless works. An imposing bronze statue of al-Mutanabbi surveyed the flowing waters of the Tigris River which had influenced civilization throughout the known history of humanity.
Al-Mutanabbi’s literary prowess remains unmatched in the annals of Arabic literature. His verses, though often lauding the rulers of his era, bear testament to his sharp intellect and unparalleled wit. Through his poetry, he explored the intricacies of life’s philosophy, extolled the valour revered by Arab poets, and vividly depicted the tumultuous battles of his time. Yet, amidst the grandeur of his epic compositions, his verses also resonated with romance, adorned with exquisite similes and metaphors that continue to enrapture readers to this day. He says in one of his poems:
“The watchmen are not worried about the persons who visit you in the darkness because you are so beautiful and shining that you radiate in the darkness and anybody who meets you in the darkness is seen by your radiance. My beloved is very beautiful, and a very beautiful fragrance of musk is always emitted from her body as if she is made of musk. She is bright like the sun.”
The Iraq Museum nestles within the heart of Baghdad and stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Mesopotamian civilization. Here, amid the echoes of ancient glory, the narrative of humanity’s journey unfolds amidst the relics of empires long past.
Inscribed upon the walls of this venerable institution is a history marked not only by triumphs and achievements but also by the sombre shadows of conflict and turmoil. Wars, with their crimson tide, have often marred the landscape where once peace, doves, and flowers flourished.
The museum’s history traces back to the aftermath of World War I, when European and American archaeologists embarked on expeditions that unearthed the treasures of Mesopotamia. In 1926, the Baghdad Archaeological Museum opened its doors, heralding the dawn of a new era in cultural preservation. By 1966, its expansive collection found a grand abode in the Al-Salihiyyah District, evolving into the renowned Iraq Museum. Within its hallowed halls reside the marvels of Babylonian, Sumerian, and Assyrian civilizations, alongside precious Islamic manuscripts, each whispering tales of bygone epochs.
The Iran-Iraq War of the 1980s forced its closure, compelling curators to safeguard its treasures from the ravages of conflict. Emerging unscathed, albeit sombre, it reopened its doors to a world hungry for knowledge and enlightenment, during the time I lived in Baghdad.
Marlon and I opening Our Art Gallery
However, long after my time in Iraq, the dawn of the new millennium brought forth a harrowing chapter in the history of this museum. The looting that ensued during the chaos of the 2003 invasion stirred the echoes of ancient lamentations, as priceless artifacts vanished into the annals of uncertainty. Though the extent of the loss remains a subject of debate, the scars of that tumultuous period linger as a reminder of the fragility of our shared heritage.
As there were no signs of our work permits arriving, I suggested to a few of my colleagues, “let’s explore Babylon tomorrow,” but only a handful joined as others were pre-occupied with anxiety over the work permit challenge.
An Excursion in Babylon
Our quest for the ancient marvels of Babylon commenced with the break of dawn. Venturing some 100 kilometres south of Baghdad, we found ourselves amidst the remnants of a once-majestic civilization, nestled alongside the modern city of Al-Ḥillah. Babylon, an epitome of antiquity, stood proudly upon the banks of the Hilla branch of the Euphrates River, surrounded by a verdant expanse nourished by the waters of the Hilla canal.
Dating back to around 2,000 BCE, Babylon bore witness to the ebb and flow of empires across millennia. Under the reign of King Nebuchadnezzar II, its splendour reached unparalleled heights. His legacy, immortalized in the annals of history, adorned the city with three opulent palaces, resplendent in blue and yellow glazed tiles. The grandeur of Babylon, the city inside the walls occupied an area of 200 square miles encompassing an area roughly equivalent to modern-day Chicago, stood as a testament to human ingenuity and ambition, 4,000 years prior to our time.
A festival in Mosul in 1989
Yet, the passage of time had not been kind to Babylon. Centuries of upheaval and plunder had stripped it of many treasures, smuggled away by European hands long ago. Under Saddam Hussein’s rule, efforts were made to resurrect the ancient city, albeit with mixed success.
The Ishtar Gate is central to Babylon’s allure, a marvel of ancient engineering and artistry. The Ishtar Gate was the eighth gate and the main entrance to the inner city of Babylon. Adorned with vibrant depictions of gods and goddesses, it stood as the portal to the city’s grand Processional Way, a path steeped in religious significance during the annual New Year celebrations. Lined with walls showing about 120 lions, bulls, dragons, and flowers on yellow and black glazed bricks, it symbolized the goddess Ishtar. Around the dawn of the twentieth century, excavations by German archaeologists had unearthed remnants of the gate.
King Nebuchadnezzar II also built several shrines, the largest of which, called Esagil, was dedicated to Marduk. The shrine stood 280 feet tall, nearly the size of a 26-story office building. Similarly elusive were the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, revered as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Despite extensive searches, their precise location and existence remained shrouded in mystery. I was happy that the famous rooftop bar at Hotel Babylon Oberoi – ‘Hanging Gardens’ came within my portfolio.
Al-Mutanabbi Statue in Baghdad
The Lion of Babylon was among the few tangible relics of Babylon’s past, a stone sculpture dating back over 3,600 years. Carved from black basalt and weighing a staggering 7,000 kilograms, it depicted a Mesopotamian lion in a provocative pose above a supine human figure. The postures of the lion and human strongly suggest that they are having sexual intercourse. The statue is considered among the most important symbols of Babylon and Mesopotamian art in general. Rich in symbolism and heritage, the statue stood as a testament to Babylon’s enduring legacy, revered as a national symbol of Iraq.
As we immersed ourselves in the echoes of antiquity, the allure of Babylon’s storied past enveloped us. Amidst the ruins and relics, we glimpsed fragments of a civilization lost to time, a testament to the resilience of the human spirit across the ages. And as we retraced our steps back to Baghdad, the legacy of Babylon lingered in our hearts, a reminder of the enduring power of history to captivate and be inspired.
Exploring Northern Iraq
With work permits still pending, I found myself embarking on a journey to Mosul, Iraq’s second-largest city (with a population of 700,000 in 1989, and 1.8 million in 2024), under the directions of Madan Misra, the astute General Manager. Situated some 400 kilometres north of Baghdad along the banks of the Tigris River, Mosul held a storied past as the ancient Assyrian city of Nineveh, once the world’s largest metropolis.
Mosul is the major city in Northern Iraq. In 1989, Mosul stood as a vibrant cultural hub, blending historical richness with modern vitality. Its strategic location has long made it a nexus of trade and travel, with the majestic Mosul Dam serving as a testament to its enduring significance. The city’s annual spring events drew crowds from far and wide, infusing its streets with a palpable energy.
Returning from Mosul, my boss Misra, ever the discerning leader, sought my insights into the Nineveh Oberoi Hotel, a five-star hotel he oversaw. “Mr. Jayawardena, I must use your suggestions, wisely. You are new here and your eyes are fresh. Give me all details!”, he pushed me when I spoke diplomatically and gave him an edited version of my observations. Impressed with my extended feedback, Misra entrusted me with a new task: to evaluate a neglected resort hotel in Dokan, nestled near the Iranian border. He was eager to capitalize on potential opportunities for Oberoi business expansion in Iraq.
Although two hotels I managed in the past as General Manager – The Lodge and The Village at Habarana were not internationally branded, Misra knew that those were two of the largest and the best resort hotels in Sri Lanka. “Mr. Jayawardena, you are the only person in my team in Iraq who had been a hotel General Manager. Therefore, I am going to pick your brains from time to time!” I was pleased to hear that from my boss.
Embarking on the scenic journey northward towards Dokan, we marvelled at the diversity of the landscape. We paused for a refreshing dip at a lake and a sumptuous Kurdish lunch in Kirkuk, a city renowned for its multicultural tapestry. It is now identified as the ‘Jerusalem of Kurdistan’. Arriving in Dokan, we were greeted by the serene beauty of its surroundings, enhanced by the sparkling expanse of the Dokan Lake.
Marlon and I having a quick lake dip
Marlon and I having a quick lake dip
Despite its natural allure, the resort in Dokan itself fell short of Oberoi standards, requiring substantial investment to meet the luxury benchmarks upheld by the brand. In my detailed report to Misra, I advised against Oberoi’s involvement in managing that property, recognizing the need for alignment with the company’s esteemed reputation and vision.
Re-commencing Painting
On returning to Baghdad, we were now counting nine days without formal work permits. I did not want to waste any time just idling. I decided to focus on an old hobby of mine – visual arts. At one point when I was 17-years old I displayed promise as a painter and a sculptor. My parents (who were both artists) and I discussed the option of my joining Heywood Art School in Ceylon (now the University of the Visual and Performing Arts) and becoming a professional painter and a sculptor. Instead, I joined Ceylon Hotel School and became a hotelier. However, back in my mind, I always wanted one day to become a semi-professional visual artist (which I am now).
In the mid-1980s, I took some private lessons from a veteran painter, Stanley Abeysinghe, who was a Past Principal of Heywood Art School, and a friend of my father. In Baghdad I started doing small paintings and encouraged my son, Marlon, to paint with me, as my father did, when I was Marlon’s age. After a few days, we had produced around twenty small abstract paintings on paper. Ignoring my wife’s annoyance, Marlon and I decorated a wall in our family suite with those paintings. Marlon called that wall, ‘Our Art Gallery’, and proudly encouraged any visitor to our suit to enjoy our artwork, and comment.
Finally, Allowed to Work
After 14 days of ‘no work’, we received the good news. Work permits for all 52 hotel employees who came from Sri Lanka had been approved by the Iraqi authorities. We were happy about it, and I was even more happy about the two ‘work-free’ weeks which allowed us to explore Iraq as tourists.
I immediately called a management meeting of my division and recommenced implementing our business plans, with my team. “Let’s create and promote a series of international food festivals with themes preferred by our Iraqi customers,” I motivated the team. We agreed to create a buzz and present food festivals and entertainment that Baghdad had never experienced before at a five-star hotel…